Is your horse half-brained or just seeing things differently?’To be successful with horses you must understand their nature.’
Submitted to Horse2Heart Great Horse Stories by Charlie from HorseTrainingResources.com
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“Is Your Horse Half-Brained?”

I remember being called ‘half brain’.

The reason for that was my ‘not so
smart moments’ in life like when I forgot
to shut the front door as I left the house
or a dozen other things.

But what about horses?

Believe it or not, horses are half
brained much of the time and it can
work against you if you’re not aware of it.

Here’s what I mean.

As you know, horses have an eye on
each side of their head.

The right eye can see what’s going
on towards the front of him, to his right,
and behind him on the right.

His left eye takes care of the other
side.

Thus, one eye can see what’s happening
on one side of his body ‘independently’
of the other eye.

Us humans do not have that ability.

Do you know what that means?

That means ‘half’ of his attention is
assigned to one eye. The other half of
his attention is assigned to the other eye.

That means half of his brain is with
one eye and the other half is with the
other eye.

Why is that important?

Because when you’re working with your
horse and you’ve only got one of his
eyes on you…

You Only Have Half Of His Attention!

If you don’t have his attention, you
don’t have the horse.

What’s curious to me is a lot of people don’t
understand this. Or if they do, they don’t
seem to mind the horse doesn’t give them full
attention.

But it’s crucial to have it if you’re
going to teach your horse something.

Not only that, I find it totally disrespectful to
NOT have someone’s attention when I’m talking -
and that goes for horses too!

Have you ever had a conversation with
someone and as you talk they look away,
or act uninterested, or keep looking at
their watch?

That’s rude!

Although I can’t do much about a person being
rude, I certainly can with a horse.

And when a horse isn’t giving me his
attention, it’s rude.

After all, I’m not asking them to give it
to me all day.

They have 23 hours a day to eat, meander, run,
etc….but when it’s my time – I want ‘em giving
me attention.

And if I only get one eye, then I’m not
getting ALL their attention.

Now there are many times you won’t always
get both eyes.

After all, if you’re lungeing a horse you’ll
only get one eye because he’s circling around you.

BUT!!!

He can still focus most of his attention
on you while lungeing.

And he should.

But remember, a horse’s attention span isn’t
all that long and they have to be reminded to
give it to you.

The younger the horse, the shorter the attention
span. (Generally speaking)

How do you get your horse’s attention back on
you if you lose it?

Make ‘em move.

Create a little pressure.

Now why is this important?

Well, a horse ignoring you is bad manners
for the horse.

A horse, like kids, must have good manners.
Giving you attention is part of good manners.

But also, to train a horse you must have his attention.

If he’s going to be responsive to what you ask
him to do, you have to have his attention.

What I just told you about how the horse’s brain
works and how getting both eyes gives you both
sides of his brain…which gives you his attention…
is a significant part of understanding the horse.

If you have ever wondered to yourself,
‘Why does my horse do X ? ‘, then it may be
there’s something about his nature you don’t
know…but should.

In all my encounters with horse trainers,
there’s one thing (among others) that we
consistently agree on.
And that is…

‘To be successful with horses,
you must understand their nature.’

Makes sense, really.

After all, if you’re going to be a surgeon,
you must know how the body works so you can
repair damage and keep it working.

If you’re going to be an auto mechanic,
you must know how engines work to fix them.

If you make engine repairs that are inconsistent
with how an engine works, you will fail.

Training your horse is much the same way.

You MUST know how it works, thinks, acts,
reacts, and so on.

There are lots of books on the subject
if you want to read and study up on it.
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Submitted to Horse2Heart Great Horse Stories by Charlie from HorseTrainingResources.com

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Horse Eye Insight Explains Their Brain

Safety on the trail is always our first concern. A horse that bucks, bolts or even rears when out on the trail is unsafe for the rider as well as anyone who is with the rider. This behavior is not acceptable and training is needed however it is important to understand why a horse would behave this way. It appears that this happens frequently and there are multiple reasons why horses do this. Let’s discuss some of the reasons.

I’d like to start with a story about an incident that happened several years ago. I did a radio interview on The Horse Show with Rick Lamb. He asked me what is the best way to handle a horse that bolts out on the trail?

A horse will bolt when his emotional level is up because all horses have the flight instinct. Some horses, in general have a higher emotional level. Often we take our horses out on the trail when they are fresh and without any warm up. They are feeling frisky and maybe have not been ridden for a couple of weeks and they are anxious to get out. In this situation, we are setting ourselves up to have big problems. I’ve been working with horses called “problem horses” for close to 25 years and I would say there are no problem horses, only uneducated horses and owners. I have found that there is an assumption with most horses we just assume that we can get on them and go out on the trail and they are going to be fine. I have had horses here at the barn who are 10 to 15 years old and still emotional basket cases in their own environment and when going out on the trail, they are even worse. When something startles them, they bolt. To me, these are not problem horses but just uneducated horses with riders who also need more education.

Sometimes a horse will react to fear not by bolting, but by bucking. Another reason a horse may buck is that while we are out on the trail, we separate from each other and one rider goes right and the other goes left. The horse may be what we call “buddy sour” and the horse becomes concerned about his buddy leaving. Horses are herd animals and the more that we restrain a horse, the more we increase his emotional level. A horse that is being held back may respond by bucking or even rearing.

Getting back to Rick Lamb’s question on what to do when we are out on the trail, I explained that there are certain things we can do on the trail but only if the horse knows the exercise. If the horse does not understand what he is being asked to do, it doesn’t make any difference how good the rider is, the horse is not going to cooperate. What I recommend is that the action we may need to take out on the trail must be started at home. In the interview, Rick said, “No, Charles, you don’t understand my question. What do we do out on the trail?” I replied that we must start at home. We must educate our horse with certain exercises that we can use to control the horse’s behavior. We must be able to control the hips, the shoulders and most of all, we must have control of the emotions. Exercises that allow us to control the hips, shoulders and feet are described in detail in my book, Building Your Dream Horse. An educated rider is equally important as an educated horse.

I always like to measure the emotions of a horse on a scale of one to ten, one being lethargic and ten being a horse that is out of control. When a horse is a ten, the most we may be able to bring it down to is a five. A horse that is a five or six, we may bring down to a three or four. By sacking out a horse and working with the emotions we can set ourselves up for success. When we have addressed emotional issues at home in a safe environment, when we get out on the trail the horse will not over react and bolt or buck.

How long it takes to work with a horse on these issues depends on the emotional level of the horse. I had a Tennessee Walker at the barn for three months and that horse was an emotional wreck and was very bad about bolting. After three months there was a huge difference in the horse but I really needed another month to make the horse totally sound out on the trail. Generally, when a horse has been in training with me for three or four months, I have established body control, brought the emotional level down and the horse will be essentially sound.

Time is an important aspect. Many of us can accomplish a lot with a horse in a very short time. For example, the colt starting contests where in the space of three to four hours we are able to get on and ride. The fact that we can get on and ride them doesn’t mean those horses are really broke or that their emotions are stable. You can’t estimate the time it will take you to get the horse to the point where you can go out on the trail and be fairly safe. We all know that horses are dangerous and we need to do our basics at home. Safety is always our first concern. Once we have accomplished the basics at home and we can control the horse’s feet, the horse understands the exercise. Then, when we are out on the trail and the horse thinks about bolting, we can control the horse’s feet. The horse is going to tell you if he is getting ready to bolt. When you are going down the trail and the horse throws his head up in the air like a giraffe, that action tells you that you need to control the horse’s feet and not wait until the horse is trying to run away or buck. I have several DVDs available that speak to the basics that riders and horses need to know to be safe on the trail.

So, for a safe and pleasant ride on the trail, we need to put some training time in with the horse. Sometimes we don’t like to spend our time training our horse. When we also complain about not having fun when riding because the horse is trying to bolt or he jigs all the way home, we find that training time is time well spent. If you wind up having to walk the horse home for the sake of safety, time spent at home training may seem much more pleasant.

Charles Wilhelm

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Horses Bucking and Bolting on the Trail

Tell them Horse2Heart sent you to the Course 1 Clinic
Furndale, California
Who: Clinician Jonathan Field
What: Course One Leadership Clinic
Where: Furndale Fairgrounds
When: November 18th-20th 2011
Why: To build a better partnership with your horse!
How Much: Participants – $550 tax incl.
Spectators – $25/day

This Clinic will be a three day event beginning on Friday, November 18th and ending on Sunday, November 20th. Included in the price of the clinic, each participant receives three free spectator passes.

For more information please see our logistics sheethere

For questions please contact Thommie Haskins atThommiekins@yahoo.com or by calling (707) 407-8020.
Only a few spots remain! Call Thommie today!

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Working Horses at Liberty

But the Quarter Horse’s claim to fame goes far beyond its abilities to provide a good performance horse in whatever discipline a rider might choose. The Quarter Horse has also been the catalyst for the creation of several new breeds that are separate but closely related to this all-American horse.

Over the past century, three new breeds have developed from Quarter Horse bloodlines: the Quarab, the Quarter Pony and the Appendix Quarter Horse. Each of these breeds possess aspects of the Quarter Horse, yet are unique from the Quarter Horse breed in a number of different ways.

The Quarter Horse

The choice of the Quarter Horse to serve as a foundation for new breeds is not surprising when you consider the unique history and traits the Quarter Horse possesses.

The breed had its start in 17th century, when English colonists began crossing horses imported from the mother country with Native American Chickasaw horses, a breed that originated from Spanish stock. As the sport of racing on short straightaways became more and more popular in the Colonies, the horses resulting from English and Chickasaw breeding proved to be unbeatable sprinters.

In the early 1800s, because of the new breed’s profound speed coupled with cow sense, this uniquely American horse became the mount of choice to work cattle in the newly explored American West. But it wasn’t until 1940 that a group of horsemen came together to officially establish these horses as the “Quarter Horse.” At that same time, the American Quarter Horse Association was born.

Since then, the popularity of the Quarter Horse has grown exponentially, and the breed is now considered the most widely distributed of all horse breeds in the world.

The Quarter Horse has very distinct characteristics, which have prompted those interested in creating new breeds to take notice. According to the AQHA’s Official Handbook of Rules and Regulations, the American Quarter Horse is characterized by a short, broad head, topped by small, active ears; large eyes set wide apart; sensitive nostrils over a shallow muzzle; and a firm mouth. The medium length neck joins the sloping shoulders at a near 45-degree angle with a distinct throatlatch. The chest is deep and broad with wide-set forelegs, which blend well into the shoulders. The powerful, muscled forearm extends to the knee whether viewed from the front or side. The back is close-coupled and especially full and powerful across the kidneys and is full through the thigh, stifle,gaskin and down the hock.

The rear quarters are broad, deep and heavy, viewed from either side or rear. The hind leg is muscled inside and out. The hocks are wide, deep, straight and clean, with the foot well-rounded and roomy with an especially deep, open heel.

The generally acceptable height of the American Quarter Horse ranges from 14.3 to 15.1 hands, and the breed comes in 14 solid colors, with sorrel being the most common.

Today, the American Quarter Horse is used a vasty array of disciplines including western show and performance events, dressage, eventing, driving and competitive trail.

The Quarab

If you take all the wonderful traits of the American Quarter Horse and put them together with the elegance and refinement of the Arabian, you get an intriguing horse called the Quarab.

Breeders who first began crossing Quarter Horses and Arabians soon discovered the resulting horses from their breeding programs consistently possessed traits different from other half-Arabian crossbreeds. These Quarter Horse/Arab crosses, as well as other Arabian crossbreds, were eligible for registration with the International Arabian Horse Association (now the Arabian Horse Association). But as breeding continued, breeders further discovered that Quarter Horse/Arab crosses bred to other Quarter Horse/Arab crosses would breed relatively true compared to other crossbreeds. This realization prompted the development of a separate registry for these horses, which came to be called the Quarab.

Official recognition of the Quarab happened in 1984, when the first registry for Quarabs, the United Quarab Registry, was formed. In 1999, another organization, the International Quarab Horse Association, was started. The goal of both groups was to promote the new breed and maintain a studbook.

Meanwhile, in 1991, the United Quarab Registry had added a Paint Quarab Index to permit crossing with Paint Horses as well as Quarter Horses in the breed, since the Paint Horse comes exclusively from Quarter Horse stock. Following suit, the International Quarab Horse Association also allows Paint/Arabian crosses.

According to those who admire the Quarab, the breed possesses the beauty, intelligence, endurance and ruggedness of the Arabian combined with the size, strength and calmness of the Quarter Horse. Many Quarabs also demonstrate a high degree of cow sense, as well as excelling as family mounts, show ring competitors, and endurance horses. In fact, Quarabs are being used in almost every equine discipline except racing.

In order for a horse to be considered a Quarab, it must possess 1/4 to 7/8 Arabian blood and 1/4 to 7/8 Quarter Horse or Paint Horse blood. No other breeds are allowed in the horse’s pedigree. For a Quarab to be considered foundation stock, one parent must be pure Arabian, while the other pure Quarter Horse or Paint Horse.

According to the United Quarab Registry, Quarabs measure anywhere from 14 to 16 hands, and may possess stock-horse type with a muscular forearm and gaskin and well-rounded hip; or Arabian type with long, well-arched neck, long barrel, and level croup. The Quarab head usually shows refinement, as well as large eyes, wide forehead, and slight to extreme dish in the face, depending on the ratio of Arabian to Quarter Horse blood.

The International Quarab Horse Association standard describes a well-balanced horse that is seen in distinctly different types. Straight or Foundation Type animals are a blend of the traits of both the Arabian and the Quarter Horse or Paint, while Stock Type animals demonstrate more of the traits commonly associated with the Quarter Horse and Paint. However, they also retain the elegance and typiness of the Arabian.

Pleasure Type Quarabs more closely resemble their Arabian ancestry with more refinement, especially in the head. The body should still show a strong influence of Quarter Horse or Paint blood.

Quarter Pony

When the Quarter Horse breed was officially established, the AQHA determined that horses measuring under 14.3 hands would not be considered for registration. These animals were below the AQHA’s required height for a Quarter Horse, and were not to be included in the AQHA stud book.

Despite this ruling, purebred Quarter Horses continued to be born that would not grow past 14.2 hands. These horses were rich in Quarter Horse blood–especially in foundation breeding–yet were not eligible for registration with the AQHA.

In addition to these smaller sized Quarter Horses, ponies of unknown breeding with obvious Quarter Horse or stock horse conformation were being used for a variety of work on ranches and farms around the country.

This prompted Harold Wymore, a horseman in Sharon, Iowa, to start a registry in that would honor and promote small, stock type ponies of obvious Quarter Horse breeding, even if their parentage was unknown. In 1964, the American Quarter Pony Association was born.

The AQHA has since dropped its height restriction on registering Quarter Horses below 14.3 hands, but the Quarter Pony has nonetheless remained a separate entity. In tk, another registry for this pony was formed, called the International Quarter Pony Association, and breeders of these special little horses continued to spring up around the country.

For a pony to be registered with the American Quarter Pony Association, it must be of “good conformation and desirable for breeding,” according to the organization’s rules of registration. The pony must also be easily recognizable as having characteristics of Quarter Horse-type or Quarter Horse-bred ponies, and must be at least 46 to 57 inches tall at the withers. A pony can be any solid color (pinto, Appaloosa patterns and albino are not allowed), and cannot be gaited.

Registration criteria for the International Quarter Pony Association differs from that of the American Quarter Pony Association. IQPA registration rules call for a pony that is “easily recognized as having the breeding or characteristics of Quarter Horses.” Ponies must exhibit good Quarter Horse-type conformation, desirable for breeding. They must stand between 46 and 58 inches to be eligible for regular registration, while ponies or horses 58 inches or over, or under 46 inches with one or both registered Quarter Pony parents are eligible for registration under the Breeding Stock Registry.

Unlike the American Quarter Pony Association, the IQPA allows ponies with the markings and characteristics of Paint, Appaloosa and albino horses. Ponies can also be double-registered with other associations such as the Pony of the Americas Club, the AQHA and the American Paint Horse Association. Ponies of unknown parentage are also permitted in the registry assuming they fit the conformation description above.

Quarter Ponies are versatile performers, and compete in open shows at a number of events. The IQPA offers an open show point program in halter, barrel racing, cutting, English pleasure, jumping, competitive trail, western pleasure and other events, while the AQPA also offers open points in many of the same classes and disciplines.

Appendix Quarter Horses

The Quarter Horse is no stranger to Thoroughbred blood. Shortly after the American Quarter Horse was established as an official breed in the 1940s, Thoroughbred blood was infused into Quarter Horse bloodlines to produce a horse built for speed.

The studbook was eventually closed to Thoroughbreds. However, many Quarter Horse breeders still wanted to cross to Thoroughbreds in their breeding programs. To accommodate these breeders, the AQHA implemented the Appendix Quarter Horse registration designation.

Today, Quarter Horse/Thoroughbred crossbreeds are still considered Appendix Quarter Horses. To be registered as an Appendix Quarter Horse, a horse must have one parent registered as a numbered American Quarter Horse and the other parent registered with the Jockey Club of North America–the official registry for Thoroughbreds in the U.S.–or any Thoroughbred registry recognized by The Jockey Club of North America. If the sire or dam of the horse being registered is also an Appendix Quarter Horse, then that horse is also eligible for registration as an Appendix Quarter Horse.

Appendix Quarter Horses tend to be lankier and taller than purebred Quarter Horses, with Appendix Quarter Horses often reaching 16 hands or higher. They can be seen in the same colors as purebred Quarter Horses, which include bay, black, brown, sorrel, chestnut, dun, buckskin, red dun, grullo, palomino, gray, red roan, blue roan and bay roan.
Because of their Thoroughbred breeding, Appendix Quarter Horses are most often seen on the racetrack, as well as in the English disciplines. Appendix Quarter Horses often make great hunters, show jumpers and dressage competitors.

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Quarter Horse Crosses

The Use of Stud Chains on Horses

If we really love and care for our horses as much as we say or think we do, why would we ever want to inflict pain on them? Stud chains are used on the nose, below the chin or across the gums. These areas are very delicate and sensitive.

 I know that when a horse is out of control, we can get frustrated and can get out of control ourselves. We can become victims of our own emotions. The result may be that we take it out on the horse. But remember my motto, it is never, ever the horses’ fault. It is our responsibility to train the horse humanely. You may argue that you have seen difficult horses behave with a stud chain but the stud chain is only a temporary solution to a behavioral problem. You usually see them on stallions but they are also used on mares and geldings. Horses that have stud chains used on them become dull, they become used to the pressure and pain a stud chain inflicts. The horse will learn to just tolerate it. Take off the stud chain and the horse will again be out of control.

 It has been proven in raising children that inflicting pain does not produce a learned behavior.  The use of pain does not carry forward into the future positively. Although, fear and pain can cause the reverse and create fear issues and negative behaviors that do carry over. A learned behavior happens when a correction is made and positive reinforcement is used. That enables the brain to connect the action with the correct response. Then, the behavior becomes a conditioned response and can be carried over into the future as what to do or not do.

 Although a stud chain gives you instant gratification in that you achieve control of your horse, it is my experience that within a short while the horse will get used to it. All you will end with is a horse with a high head thrown into the air and one that is still pulling and dragging you around. Every horse that I know of that is having a stud chain used on it is still out of control.

Working with problem horses for the past twenty years has shown me that stud chains do not work. There is no positive learned behavior. The horse has to have a reason to make a change in behavior. Working through the mind by controlling the parts of the horse  (head, shoulder, hips, feet) you will create a learned behavior. Inflicting pain does not motivate a horse to make a change. Pain only intimidates the horse. Eventually the horse will become used to the pain and just endure it.

Why inflict pain when we can train any horse, even a stallion, to respond to cues and behave like a gentleman? Horses are happier, more calm and better partners when they have learned acceptable responses. The difference is of course that the stud chain is a quick fix. Training is an investment of time, energy, and patience. It will be worth every second in the long run. You can have responsive, light horse, one you can truly enjoy.

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

The Use of Stud Chains on Horses by Charles Wilhelm

Gerry heals Miro

In Liz’s well done slide show you can get a glimpse of tidbits of a program that will change your life forever. Watch for a stunning video Gerry is editing now (and again, and again) that will have you saying you have to get there.

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Gerry Grant Joins Healing Horses In Canada

The Benefits of Setting Goals for Your Horse by Charles Wilhelm

It is good to set goals for our horses particularly if you are planning on taking your horse to a show.  There are a lot of steps between setting the goal and accomplishing it.  What I like to do in training a horse is to have a training program planned before I start.  It is good to have a weekly, three-month, 6-month and a yearly road map.  I allow as much time as is needed for each step working with a particular horse.  For example, if I start a horse under saddle, normally in about three months, the horse will be 75% to 80% finished.  After three months, I can walk, trot and canter, take the horse out on the trail and have relatively good control of the hind quarters and shoulders.  The horse is starting to move off the outside rein, move off my leg and has somewhat accepted the bit.  The horse is progressing and I am moving toward meeting my goal.  There are a lot of steps to get the horse to this place. 

In our training program here at the barn, or any good training program, when a horse comes in there are certain steps that we begin with.  As the horse progresses, we build on those steps.  We start with small steps and when those are mastered, we build on them to increase learning.  When  young horses come in for schooling, and sometimes even older horses, we put them through our leading program.  They must learn to be civilized, have manners and respect the trainer’s space.  These are some building blocks or steps toward the goal of having a nice riding horse.  All of our horses go through de-spooking; we work with the emotions so they learn to be calm.  When we go to a show or out on the trail, we know our horses will handle the stress and pressure. 

Another part of our training program is teaching the horse to respond to a forward cue, not only on the ground but in the saddle.  Another part of our program is to get the horse to accept the saddle and make sure the horse is comfortable.  This may sound easy but we had a horse come in not long ago that we worked with over thirty days before the horse would accept the saddle, be comfortable with it and not buck.  Every day we put the saddle on the horse and it was not comfortable with it.  Each day it got better and better but it was 45 days before we could saddle that horse and lead it out without the horse over reacting negatively.  Each step takes time and some steps may take longer than we expect.

Another building block is to get a horse to accept a bit.  This means not only bridling the horse but getting the horse to accept being bridled and start learning to give to pressure, to not resist but to yield to it.  We teach the horse to follow its nose.  In other words, when I pick up the right rein I want my horse to yield his nose and follow the direction I have asked for.  The horse also needs to move off the outside rein; if I put the left rein on the horse’s neck the horse needs to move off the rein and go right in the direction I want it to go. 

The learning blocks continue to build until the horse has a basic understanding and we have a better trained horse.  This is true not only physically but emotionally and mentally, as a well-trained horse will start checking in with us to see what we want to do next.  Sometimes in training a horse, I think of a pyramid, the top being my goal and the base in three parts.  One is the mental part of the horse, another is the emotional part and the final part is the physical control of the horse.  Do we have physical control of the horse?  Can we stop and ask the horse to back up, go right or left?  Do we have control when asking the horse to go into a stall, a trailer or a wash rack to bathe it?  That is the physical training.  The emotional training is dealt with when I put pressure on a horse and the horse doesn’t strike out, kick or rear.  Those are all part of the flight instinct and what we are trying to do is eliminate all that behavior as much as possible to create a safe horse.  Mentally, I want my horse to start thinking about what is next, what I call business ears.  When I am riding a horse and his ears are working back and forth and back and forth, the horse is paying attention to business.  This means the horse is ready for the next cue telling him what I would like him to do.  This is what we want our horse to do.  When we get into a situation like a horse show, we want our horse to focus on us and not everything else that is going on. 

Before we take a horse to a show to compete, we like to take our horses to a show and just school.  Every horse is different and you may only need to go to a couple of shows before the horse will be fine with it and then you can compete.  Ideally, we take the horse the year before we want to show.  By the time we are ready to show, the horse is ready to be shown and is not concerned with trucks, trailers and the activity at a show.   This is part of the building blocks.  A goal is important but it requires a game plan.  Many people have a goal but do not have a training plan.  If your goal is to trail ride, you don’t want the horse bolting, nervous, jigging back home or barn sour.  If you are having those problems, you have tried to do the goal first, without the building blocks of the training program. 

I mentioned earlier the horse that was so difficult to get under saddle.  This has been a tough horse.  This horse has been here four months.  It could not lunge without pulling out through the shoulders, it was rude and belligerent, it was difficult getting the horse to accept shots, and if touched on the side it would strike out.  Now the horse is fine; he is like a totally different horse.  It took us awhile to get through the building blocks to this point.  And now, because we took the time to go through the steps, on the first ride out of the round pen we went all around the ranch and then into the arena.  The owner’s goal for this horse is to show and participate in eventing.  To do this, the horse must be able to accept pressures.  Now the horse is willing, walks, trots, canters and is accepting of the rider.  If we had pushed this horse too fast, he might have started baulking, bucking or blowing up in general.  These types of negative experiences cost training time as we have to go back to deal with the issues. 

You need to consider these things.  Set your goal and decide what steps it will take to get your horse there.  You need to think about what you need from your horse, what he needs to be able to do, to accomplish the goal.  If I want a reining horse, the horse has to learn certain cues and I need to determine which steps are needed to get the horse to learn those cues.  You can learn some of these steps from two books I have written, Building Your Dream Horse and Starting Baby Jaz which is a colt starting book but it is also a great book for learning how to school your horse.  I also have some DVDs that are great for teaching basic commands. 

Charles Wilhelm

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Horse Show Prep Steps are Small Goals

Make sure you have a Whoa when your horse suddenly has a Go!

Emergency brakes on a Horse? Master Horse trainer Charles Wilhelm gives us the step by step instructions to make sure you have a Whoa when your horse suddenly has a Go! Control the momentum by using a properly installed stop cue that doesn’t interfere with other operating systems.

The One Rein Stop by Charles Wilhelm

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The act of moving the hips over for a one-rein emergency halt is the single greatest technique you can employ to stop a horse who is bolting or bucking.  It can and has saved many riders from terrible accidents.  Picking up on two reins when a horse is out of control, does not help.  It only captures the horse’s energy and actually fuels the horse’s desire to flee.  By picking up on one rein to have the horse move his hips over, you actually deplete the energy and give it some place to go.  It is a constructive movement.  I recommend practicing this exercise at a walk and trot, in preparation for one day when it could help you stay safe.

I spend a lot of time here at the barn teaching horses the one-rein stop.  I used to teach my horse that when I picked up on the inside rein, he was to move his hind quarters over.  I made sure he disengaged and was giving to the bit and that he was smoothly stepping over with his left hind in front of his right hind.  Then I would wait for the hind quarters to stop.  A few years ago, I changed my approach.  I’m always trying to train my horse for the future.  In other words, I train to something that I am going to need later as the horse progresses in his training.   Now, I do not wait for the hindquarters to stop, I keep moving the hindquarters until the horse is soft and giving.  This is because I don’t want to shut down the forward movement.  Later in the training, when I want to teach my horse to do a traditional turn on the forehand, I don’t want this training to work against me in that I already told the horse to stop and now I’m going to tell him to go.

I also put my leg on first as a pre-cue to the stop.   I put my leg on the number three spot.  There are three spots on the side of a horse. The  first spot is just in front of the cinch.  It is used for moving the shoulders.  The second spot is an inch or two back and is for the shoulders and the hindquarters for leg yielding and side passing.  The third spot is an inch or two further back still and it is for controlling the hindquarters.   When I put my leg on the third spot that tells the horse I want him to move his hindquarters.  Then, I pick up the inside rein and ask the horse to move the hindquarters with that aid as well.  If I stay consistent, pretty soon when I put my leg on the horse in the number three spot the horse will move his hips over without the need for me to make contact with the rein.  The goal is to eventually not have to make contact on the rein.  When you pick up the rein, the horse will move the hips over as the horse responds to your leg pre-cue.  The horse learns what is next and responds accordingly to avoid the pressure.  This works well when I want to teach my horse to pick up the correct lead, make lead changes, and it is  also necessary for side passing.

When your horse has connected the dots and has figured out that what you want is for him to stop, what you may do is soften for just a moment.  In other words, put your aids in neutral for a moment, which will actually tell the horse “good job.”  Then continue and move the hips.  If I put a leg on a horse, I want that horse to continue moving until I tell him to stop.  But, we can also tell the horse, in a short message, by a very short pause, “good job” but I also need you to continue to move the hips over.  That way you follow through and your horse moves his hips over so later you can use that same cue by adding the outside rein and do a very traditional turn on the forehand.

Charles Wilhelm Natural Horsetraining Site

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Emergency Brakes on a Horse?

The Need for Chiropractic and Dental Care

I have had a lot of horses come into the barn and have received many telephone calls related to horses that buck.  There are many reasons that a horse will buck.  It may not be a broke horse, or the freshness has not been taken off of it before it was ridden, or there may be medical issues or saddle issues.  The medical and saddle issues can be one and the same.
For a long time I was training horses and looking for reasons for bucking and trying to find solutions.  Sometimes, what I thought was a training issue turned out to be a medical issue and the horse was in pain.  Some horses, just like people, can handle pain and their threshold of pain is much higher than other horses.  Through continuing to seek answers, I started utilizing chiropractic care for horses.  But honestly, it didn’t come about until I started having chiropractic treatments myself.  It is interesting how we find things in one part of our lives that can translate into other parts of our lives.  My back had been bothering me for a long time but I grew up in the old school that you tough it out.  Once I started going to a chiropractor and started to get relief for my own back problem, I started looking at the horses in a different light.  Sometimes we look at horses as being different from us because they are animals, and in many ways they are different.  But if you think about it, they are flesh and blood, they do have a mechanical structure.  Their bones can be out of alignment and that can cause discomfort.

When a horse comes into training now, we evaluate all possible health issues.  I have a chiropractor that comes in once a month and we check out the alignment of any new horse or horse that is having issues.  I have had horses here at the ranch that had difficulty picking up a lead because of bones being out of alignment and causing discomfort.  I have found that chiropractic care is very necessary.  This is probably true more so of horses that are stalled or kept in a small paddock where they can cast themselves and get hung up on the sides.  Horses in pasture can have chiropractic problems but they are less likely to need adjustment.  Usually horses can adjust themselves if they are in pasture.  They can roll completely over, going back and forth, and a lot of times they adjust themselves.  I have had horses come in that were out of alignment, especially in the axis area (the top of the poll) and through adjustment, they were freed up and then able to relax and move properly.  Chiropractic issues can cause discomfort and if you are having issues with your horse you may want to have a chiropractor check him out.  When people come to me that is usually the first option I suggest. 

One of the other things we do here at the barn is have the dentist look at the horses.  There are a lot of trainers even today who do not use or believe in the dental care of horses.  Generally, horses out in the wild in the right setting can maintain their teeth.  For horses cared for humans and kept in pens, stalls and pastures, eating soft foods and grains, it is very important that their teeth be maintained.  Dental care is part of the integrity of care.  This is especially true for horses under age three and I recommend seeing the dentist every six months because their teeth are changing so much.  For others, I suggest they be seen at least once a year.  You usually do not have to pay an outrageous amount.  There are people who do specialize in horse dentistry.  When I have a horse come into the barn that has had his teeth checked by I veterinarian, I have the dentist evaluate the horse, not because I think the vet did a poor job, but I need to know for myself that the horse doesn’t have problems. 

When the horse dentist comes out, there is always a vet on hand to administer the shots and put a spectrum in the mouth and check to see that the horse is closing and chewing properly.  A horse chews from side to side and it is important to know that they are not locking up or that there are no other dental problems causing discomfort.  In training horses I have found that dental problems can be a huge factor.  Dental problems affect behaviors such as throwing the head, not yielding properly, problems with lateral and vertical flexion and not being able to come through.  Every time a new horse comes in, young or old, we always have the dentist look at the horse and make sure it is fine.  Over 90 percent of the time something needs to be done to the teeth.  As general maintenance for your horse, it is always good to have dental work done once a year and a chiropractor come out and look at your horse from time to time.

Charles Wilhelm | Training you and your Horse

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Horse Training Mysteries Solved by Charles Wilhelm

Did you know?

“There are three parts to a horse that give you directional control”

“Always begin with a verbal pre-cue”

“Correct safety and respect behavior issues”

“Following tips will help you to be successful with this exercise and give your horse every chance to succeed.” Charles Wilhelm

The Concentrated Circles Exercise

The exercise we call “concentrated circles” is a critical foundation training exercise.  This exercise teaches the horse to bend around you which improves suppleness.  It also provides important schooling of the go-forward cue.  With a new or young horse, I normally do not begin training with concentrated circles.  The horse is fairly close in this exercise and it is important to have already established respect and a forward cue to minimize the risk of being kicked or run over.  Once I feel it is safe, I put the horse on a twelve-foot line and begin to lunge.  I start with some basic change of direction work out at the end of the line to get the horse focused on going forward, stopping his feet and paying attention to what I am asking him to do.  When the horse is fairly consistent in his response and is focused on me, I take the slack out of the line and move my hand up to the snap to begin the concentrated circles.

Before you begin this exercise, you should know that there are three parts to a horse that give you directional control: the nose, shoulder and hindquarters.  The horse will follow its nose, then the shoulder, ending with the hips and hindquarters.  Visualize your horse moving in a circle around you and how you control each of these parts.

For this exercise you may use a web or rope halter on your horse.  A rope or “cowboy halter” as I call it, has more bite.   You will also need a training stick or cane.   To begin the exercise, hold the line at the snap.  If your horse will be circling to the left, hold the line in your left hand.  If your horse will be circling to the right, hold the line in your right hand.  Keep your arm straight out in front of you and level.  It is important to not let your elbow bend.

Stand across from your horse’s shoulder with the stick or cane at your side.  Direct the horse forward with your basic verbal go-forward command and the hand holding the line at the snap.  This is a pre-cue.  If your horse does not go forward, you must follow through by adding pressure.  The type of pressure you choose will depend on the personality and emotional level of your horse.    To add pressure you can:

1.         Lift the training stick or cane from your side and point it at the horse’s hip.

2.         Whip the ground with the lash of the stick or cane to make a noise to add pressure.

3.         Take the stick or cane and tap the hip.  Increase the strength of the tap as needed.

As the horse moves forward, turn in place so the horse will follow.  Do not walk forward and around with the horse.  I try to keep my feet in place, moving off one heel so that the horse goes around me.  At first, your horse will not move in a perfect circle around you and you will need to watch which parts need adjustment.  The following tips will help you to be successful with this exercise.

Stand in the center of the circle and do not move out or back.  Pretend your feet or at least one, are glued to the center.  Keep your arm level and your hand steady while directing the horse’s nose.  Imagine yourself in the middle of a wagon wheel.  The horse should be yielding to you, bending around you and staying off the contact of the line.

If the horse pulls the line tight, maintain the contact until the horse gives.  It is critical to release immediately when the horse gives.  This follows the basic training principle of pressure/release.  Continue to ask the horse to go forward until he is soft and yielding for at least several circles in one direction without stopping.  When the horse is soft and consistent in one direction, switch hands and ask the horse to go the other way.

If the horse presses in toward you with its shoulder and/or its hip while it is circling, direct the horse outward.  The horse should not be in your personal space.  Check your arm position to make sure your arm is fully extended.  The horse should be bending and circling you in an arc.  If the shoulder or hip is in toward you, the horse is not in an arc and is not doing the exercise correctly.   Additionally, this is a safety and respect issue as well.  Correct this behavior immediately.  Tap the shoulder to drive the shoulder away and tap the hip to drive the hindquarters out.  You must do this every time a part of the horse comes too close to you.  It must be clear to the horse that this is not acceptable.  Use only as much pressure as you need to immediately get the horse out of your space.

Watch out for kicking.  It is common for a horse to kick when you tap it on the hip for the first time to make it go forward.  There are several dynamics that may occur and cause this.  The reaction may be the horse not liking the pressure on his hindquarters or you may be using too much pressure.  The horse may not like being asked to go forward while you are holding the snap, or may not like being asked to work.  The exercise is work for the horse and he must move his feet laterally to make the arc around you and this may be a new movement for the horse.   Kicking is never acceptable and must be corrected immediately.  Tap the horse fairly hard on the lower portion of the leg that kicked.  This is not a punishment.  It is applying the right amount of corrective pressure to change the behavior.  Think how an alpha horse would go after a new horse that kicked it — it would be very tough on the new horse.  We need to be as adamant and to act immediately.  If you don’t act immediately, the horse will miss the cause and effect and there is no point making the correction.

When you have your horse moving around you and you are ready to stop, say whoa and pull the line up toward the horse’s hip.  Take the slack out of the line and make contact until the horse stops his feet and faces you. This movement causes the hips to swing over and the horse to stop and line up facing you straight on.  At this time you may want to ask the horse to pause and then back up a few steps.  Then you can start the exercise in the opposite direction.

Give your horse every chance to succeed.  Always begin with a verbal pre-cue, a kiss or a cluck or whatever you use as your basic go-forward command.   If the horse does not respond, increase the pressure.  The worst thing you can do is to half-heartedly tap, tap, tap while the horse ignores you.  This teaches the horse to ignore you and become used to the pressure while failing to respond.  This is how horses get heavier in response to commands, instead of lighter.  Determine how much pressure your horse needs and be consistent about applying it.

Charles Wilhelm

Post from: Horse Stories | Horse2Heart Equestrian News and Great Horse Stories

Critical Horse Training Advice and Exercises from Charles Wilhelm